The blades are made from hardened steel.  We have been selling these tools for over 10 years now, and have plenty of spare blades in stock.  We also have spare screws and parts in case you lose one in a pile of sawdust or chips.   The blades for both the 45-degree and 90-degree are double sided, which means that when one edge gets dull, flip it over to use the other side to cut.  The 45-degree cutter uses just one blade to cut the tenon, and there is a spare blade that is mounted in the arm.  The 90-degree cutter uses two blades.  The blades are NOT interchangeable.  They are different lengths.

Yes, they can be sharpened, but not many times.  Since there is not much metal between the sharp edge of the blade and the mounting screws, there just isn’t much that can be ground.  Some customers have used a high grit sandpaper to sharpen the edge.

That will depend on a couple of things.  Green wood is normally softer than dry wood and the blades will stay sharp for quite a while.  Dry hard woods like tamarack, oak, etc., will dull the cutting blade quicker than soft wood.  Remember that the cutting blades are made from hardened steel, and are double-sided.  When one side of the blade gets a little dull, simply remove it, flip it over to the sharp side, and tighten it back down with the hex key.  Sharpening the blades is not recommended since they made from hardened steel, and the mounting holds are very close to the edge.  Replacement blades are available here, with volume discounts applied in the shopping cart if more than one is ordered.  Also, since these are steel blades, before long term storage we recommend that you remove any tree sap and wood savings.  Then add a few drops of oil to the blade to avoid rust.

No.  There are simply too many sizes and brands to keep in stock.   You will have to decide for yourself if you want to use the less expensive flat spade drill bits, or invest in a higher quality, and more expensive forstner bit.  You probably already have some kind of bit.  Just use that to start out, and adjust the E-Z Log Tenon Cutter to fit whatever size you have.

You can easily cut a tenon at the end of a log that is up to 4 -1/2″ diameter.  If the log is slightly larger than 4.5″ diameter, you can use a draw knife, planer, or saw to trim the edge so that the E-Z Log Cutter can fit.  A cheap little electric hand planer works great to get the size you need.

More  glue area, and looks.  It is nice to have the option to countersink your mortises to match the tenon.  However, it is more work, and you will need to drill your mortises deeper.   On some smaller projects I will use the E-Z Sink. But, if you are thinking about countersinking mortises for a 100′ railing, I would seriously reconsider. Countersinking the mortise makes the  45-degree tenon fit in so you barely see the shoulder of the tenon.  It really does make the whole project look better, like it was meant to fit together. It looks more solid.  And, if you are gluing, you will have a lot more glue area to work with.  For projects that are really going to go through a stress test, give it a try.

This wouldn’t have been possible a few years ago, but I have had great luck on reading Craig’s List and posting ads.   The last bunch of logs I harvested was from a person who needed trees removed from their yard. You’ll need a chain saw and a way to haul logs without tearing up their lawn.   Before that I needed some birch poles for another project, posted a WANTED AD on Craig’s List, and a guy up north was laid off and was willing to provide the logs I needed.

I have researched some of the State and County DNR websites.  They will allow you to go into public lands to harvest a whole lot of stuff.  Like me, most people don’t want to deal with that government bullshit. Check your state and county websites to see what you have to do to go in to get fallen wood.  You pay taxes.  Go for it.

If you live in a state that has a lot of logging operations, get to know a truck driver, logger, or the company owner.  When it is time to cut the timber, they go in and do their thing.  They leave a lot of branches on the ground, although they may be chewed up from the machines.  Call to find out if they will give you access to retrieve what is left.  They will almost always have other local resource available.

Landscapers!  It kills me to see what they haul to the landfill.  Call them.  Work with them. They’re not going to pile it up for you, but maybe you can offer your assistance, or persuasion.

Christmas.  Offer to take away old Christmas trees.

Most people use the logs and branches that are plentiful where they live.  Up north where I live (Minnesota), we’re limited to the trees that can survive the winters.  I use mostly pine, poplar, and cedar if I can get it.  People who live down south have many more trees to choose from, trees that don’t grow in northern climates. Logs I have never worked with.  One thing to think about is that when working with hard woods, like oak and tamarack, it is best to cut the tenons before the wood completely dries.  Hickory doesn’t grow up here, so I don’t know anything about it.   It is hard to drive a nail into dry tamarack after it has dried, and probably would dull the EZ blades quickly.  Use your best judgement, and use whatever wood you can get your hands on.  You’ll get your best result if using semi-dry logs.

It could be the pilot hole.  You may have started drilling the pilot hole in the center of the log, but got off level after you started drilling.  In the product manual, on page 14, there is a diagram showing what happens if the pilot hole is not drilled level (parallel).  One shoulder of the tenon comes out wide, while one side comes out thin.

The cutter follows the pilot hole.  So, when you are lining up your drill to drill the pilot hole, be sure to look up and down and sideways to get level in all directions.  To get a better visual, take a log and set the cutter on top without drilling a pilot hole.    Now just slightly pivot the cutter so the guide pin is slightly off level.  You will see how the cutter will be cutting, and how easy it is to get off.

If you are a little off, it shouldn’t really matter.  Sometimes you even want to do this for angled rails.

The quick answer is no.  You will need some type of clamp to hold the log while you are drilling the pilot hole and cutting the tenon.  If you have a large wood clamp mounted to your work bench that will accept the size log you are working with, you can do that easily.  When I do that, I wrap the log in a towel so the grips of the clamp jaws don’t get permanently embedded into the wood. The only reason you want to use a strap clamp, is because the strap won’t leave marks on the wood.  A strap clamp is actually quicker to change logs.  Push the lever to release, and change logs.   I use a strap clamp for peeling bark with a draw knife too.  Peel one side, release tension, flip the log over, tighten back down, and peel off the other side.  I also use strap clamps to cut cross-grain log slices.  When you are working with round things, like logs, you’re asking for trouble if you don’t secure it down.  You can make a strap clamp and take it with you in the woods.   Nail it down to a stump or sawhorse. 

Yes. But.  The E-Z Log Tenon Cutters and E-Z Log Sink will fit into any 1/2″ drill, but are designed for electric drills.  If you only have one or two tenons to cut on soft wood, you might get by with a battery drill.  We recommend using the highest powered electric drill you can get your hands on, and one with a side handle for added wrist support.  There is quite a bit of torque when starting the cut for the tenon, and a side-handle on your drill will even-out the stress on your wrists.  The pilot hole guide will keep the drill steady and produce a perfect tenon, but if you put on too much pressure initially, the cutting blades may cut too deeply and get stuck, thereby causing your drill to twist instead.  The key is to start all cuts slowly, and increase drill speed gradually.